Thursday, September 10, 2009

Nature's Subway : A hike to remember

6th September 2009

Hiking the Angels Landing half the mission in Zion National Park ... the other half was to hike up to the Subway ... A place from another planet!

(More pictures)

After finishing the morning formalities very early in the morning I started driving from Hurricane to the Kolob Reservoir road. Parked at the Left Fork trailhead and saw few SUV's and people getting ready. I was happy thinking that I will have a good company of people and thought of talking to them. I approached and said a 'hello'. They looked at me curiously as I do not have a perfect build for a dedicated hiker :) They said they were hiking from Wildcat trailhead and just waiting for the shuttle to pick them up. Well, I started my hike alone.

Initially the trail is flat and easy. When I reached the edge of the cliff of the canyon and realized how steep down the trail was to reach the river. The only thought was ... how hard it could be to climb it back after the 9 miles of rock hopping. The cliff looked like the lip parted and I was going down the throat of the canyon to reach the water. It was a bare and rocky trail with no shade and there were cacti around. I continued to walk down the slope ... still the river looked far away down ... at last I was there ... I could hear the (Left Fork of) North Creek ... humming to herself. Sounded nice and the air felt much cooler.

Canyon walls were massive cliffs, making me feel so small ... so small as negligible ... I followed the canyon with my eyes as much as I could see ... I could see miles and miles of high standing cliffs ... some dark and some red ... thinly covered with trees ... As I walked towards the far away subway I could hear the bird calls. Mostly like alerts than a singing note. It made me feel like I was the intruder! I walked farther and farther inside.

The water level was very low. I saw rocks everywhere ... rocks surrounded by rocks ... small and big ... very well settled where they were ... they didn't move with my weight as I hopped over them. At times the canyon would close itself with huge boulders at places ... it got narrower and I had to walk in the water ...

After walking a couple of hours I reached a place seemed like dead-end. I was standing on a massive boulder and there was no way beyond it ... looked like nice stop for rest ... for a sip of water or a snack. I sat there thinking from where did this boulder come? May be it rolled down from the top of those cliffs. May be it was thirsty, wanted to drink water and couldn't climb back :) I didn't understand why there was a well marked trail to this huge rock. May be in case of flash floods one could climb it up to safety! I left the rock as I had to reach the subway in time ... so started walking in the water itself. As I walked I was building a sort of relationship with the canyon. I was not scared of anything ... flash flood ... mountain lion ... black bear ... only thing I was thinking was Subway!

After two and a half hours I was there! Ahh ... it wasn't like I had seen the pictures ... water wasn't blue. Made me think those pictures were heavily post-processed! The walls of the subway were yellowish ... kind of golden ... perfectly symmetrical ... extremely slippery ... mystical ... beautiful ... strange ... I cautiously walked over the thin wail of water over that red-yellow floor of the canyon. Water was flowing over the natural steps and each step had a pot-hole. Water flowed into the pot-holes and overflowed out and filled another pot-hole. It was something like a machine built by nature. I took pictures of everything I saw. I climbed up those steps and walked further to see another pot-hole, a big one and deep one. I checked how deep it was by dipping my fully extended tripod. I thought little above my waist ... and jumped in ... resting my camera bag on my head. Then the canyon was narrow and in zig zag shape. Soft and smooth sand on the floor mixed with the cool water flow was very soothing to the naked feet. And there it was the waterfalls ... falling over the keyhole!

I was curious to check what is behind those falls. I covered myself with a poncho and hid my camera inside it. Walked below the waterfalls ... it was a great feeling. It was a spacious chamber. It looked like a great composition to take a picture from inside that dark chamber. When I clicked the first picture from inside out I heard a loud thud outside and I saw a big shadow of something heavy falling down. It was a loud sound in the isolation there. I thought flash floods! A cold chill traveled from the bottom of my spine to the neck. I waited for the downpour of the deluge. But, no! It was man who had come down from other side of the trail which needs rappelling. He saw me with some mixed or complicated expressions which I couldn't read. It was neither surprise, nor annoyance. It was a question mark with something. There was not even a faint smile. He said nothing. He just waited for me to clear off so that he could take a picture and moved away. After that I didn't see any human soul until I reached the parking lot at the trailhead.


Way back I was excited about the fact that I saw the subway and the keyhole falls. My shoes were soaked and with each step there was a 'swatch' sound. Now the heel was hurting and the soaked skin was loosing life. And I remembered my sister asking me 'why do you hike?' with a wrinkle on her nose. It is a frequent question from her. 'Your feet looks ugly because of shoe-bites' ... 'you have permanent tan on your face and arms' ... 'after all why walk so much and get sick?' Oh well ... I never try to explain her ... for I know she will never understand!

I walked in the land of sudden changes. It was something I did knowing that the chances of flash floods were maximum in September. Isn't it exciting ? fascinating? I consider this to be a hike to remember!

Where the Angels Land ...

3rd September 2009

Zion National Park is a land of cliffs and canyons. Whoever goes to Zion National Park wonders about a hike ... all the national park personnel talk about it ... and most of the visitors would like to hike it ... and that is Angels Landing! It is an exciting hike indeed until you start hiking the last 1/2 mile to the top. As everybody started I too did, but I started late.

The trail goes all uphill, steep uphill and winding switchbacks, like walking on the back of a worm. Felt like path of pilgrimage ... never-ending. Not sure how many stories behind this trail. How many casualties? ... I knew people have died here but, then people have died hiking up Half Dome in Yosemite National Park too. I didn't have a faintest idea what it is ... I came to know only when I saw it! As I scrambled up I felt the width of the entire cliff was same as of my own hips! I am not saying I am 5ft wider but, the trail felt so narrow :)

And there it was ... the dead-end! felt like I was flying, scarry and open. This side or that side, it is more than 1000ft fall. I couldn't stand there for long. The view was great but not making me comfortable. I was seeing the bright white-silvery clouds changing to black and purple in an instant as if they had some personality disorder. Last thing I wanted to see was that cruel smile of nature again ... the lightening. I had to start going down ... and I did. Scrambling down that 1/2 mile was much more scarier than going up. I slid at one place and I froze for a moment. I sat there for some time to breathe normally again. Love for life is great I thought. And also death is scarier. I felt left out and pushed my way staggering carefully down. For the first time in life, a short lived thought of loneliness passed my mind ... My spirit of "I am alone but not lonely" shook a bit ... till I reached the Scout's Lookout. Then, what the heck ? I did it! Woo Hoo!

I sat there to drink some water. And I heard "hey stranger, you made it ?" I turned back and I see the stranger who got off the bus with me for this hike. A tall, fit, fat-less, heavily sweating, no shirt ... so on ... he was really HOT ... I said "yeah, I did". He had finished the hike a while ago and was relaxing ... He asked me back "still alive?" and I replied "I guess so, I am talking to you". Even later, on the hike, twice again he passed me and every time "hey stranger" conversation went on ... nice huh ? :) See you are not alone ... there are many others too who are alone :) And such strangers bring us out of emptiness to a stable ground.

Coming back was very interesting ... every other turn there was at least a couple or a family asking about "How was the hike?" or "How difficult it is?" or "Is it true what others say?" ... so on ... Yeah ... Life ... I took the shuttle back to the Visitor Center and started walking to the Watchman Campground. By now the clouds were dark and their dark shadow was all over. And so there was that tungsten line of electricity ... which melted the dark coulds over the National Park. It rained and rained all the night. My small tent was shivering against the blowing wind and the rattling sound of rainfly wasn't pleasant. Over that the heavy relentless rain-drops hitting on the nylon. The light of the lightening was intense and sound of thunders was very loud. But, the performance of my little MSR Hubba Solo tent was great. Not one drop of rain water inside! Even though it rained so heavily it was warm!

Whole night I was wondering the last 1/2 mile to Angels Landing. Did Angels really land there ? weren't they scared ? Or just crazy we climb it up ? ... unapproachable piece of Earth! ... now in my memory!

Zion : A Peaceful Sanctuary

4th to 6th Septemeber 2009

It seems this year Zion National Park completes 100 years ! It was first called Mukuntuweap National Monument before it became a national park. The meaning of Mukuntuweap is straight canyon. I believe Zion means a peaceful or a perfect place ! Yes, indeed it is ! This is my second visit to Zion National Park, first being driving through it. The high standing cliffs made me feel like I was in Yosemite painted in red ! With this visit I fell in love with this place and will return again to the River Virgin !


When I visited Zion NP last time I didn't have much time to spend in there. I was awestruck by the soaring towers of monoliths and the incredible canyons. That moment I had decided I will return back. I did some research on the park later and I couldn't wait anymore. And so I was going there ... again ... The plan was to spend 3 days in Zion, with two major hikes and some touristy things. The flight to Las Vegas was eventless. But, due to long weekend rental cars had long lines ... even after finishing the paper work at the counter, I had to be in a long line for the car. Anyway, I got one ... PT Cruiser again ! I did some groceries shopping at WalMart Supercenter and headed to Utah ...

I was all excited about the hikes and photography ... As I entered Utah I could see the pinkish, purple-ish dark clouds melting and descending back to Earth ... ufff ... thunderstorm ... and I could see the lightnening ... all over ... it was bit scarry ... the crucked lines of electricity seemed like cruel-wicked laughter of the nature. I was jumping at every lightening and thunder as I passed through the storm. It rained heavily and then everything was clam and cool ...

It was breezy when I reached the Watchman Campground. There were tents everywhere. After pitching the tent I had a peaceful sleep. Next day, I went for Angels Landing hike. Still the nature was showing her wickedness. It rained heavily all afternoon and night. I could hear the 'tap tap tap' of raindrops on the rainfly of my tent. The sweeps of wind brought more raindrops and a bit of chill. In the morning I started for the tour of the park. I took the shuttle from visitor center. Went for Riverside walk. It is a pleasant two miles RT walk along the Virgin river. It is a paved trail with wildflowers lining the trailside.


Emerald pools, is a 2.6 loop steep uphill and then steep downhill hike. The pools might be great during spring. In September, it was nothing but a dirty ditch. Pa'rus trail, is a bicycle trail which gives access to the river. It also has great views of the canyon. It is very exposed and I found only ground lizards other than me on this trail at 2:00PM.


Drove east up to the Checkerboard Mesa. Very interesting landscape. Love the massiveness of this giant. Driving here through the tunnels is a wonderful experience.

Collected my backcountry permit for my Subway hike next day. By afternoon the silvery clouds turned into dark, malicious mass, as if they had MPD. I thought it would be nice to get a room in a nearby motel. I had to drive 30 miles to Hurricane. All the Motels near the park were full as it was long weekend. I can't believe that I paid $100 per night for a room at Travelodge ! But, hot shower after the hikes, AC when the outside temperature was 90F-100F, bed to sleep on ... felt good.

3rd day in Zion, I woke up very early in the morning. Prepared for my 10 miles RT backcountry out-and-back hike to Subway. I had seen the pictures on flickr and had heard so much about it and also about the flashfloods in the month of September. It was a hard hike of rock-hopping, river-walking, bush-whacking. It was a hike to remember. After the hike I appreciated the Travelodge and had a deep relaxing sleep.